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Boulder County Hiking Guide:
I hike variations of the Dakota Ridge/ Mt. Sanitas Trail almost daily, in all seasons and weather. My dogs insist. But even after 30 years, this trail still surprises me. Heading up the gully west of Hawthorn, my first catch-my-breath stop on a hot day will be the ripple rock—a tilted piece of an ancient seabed, a geologist friend tells me. On the northeast trail to Mt. Sanitas, I’ll sit in the stone-slab armchair to admire the view before continuing to “thunderbird-rock-art” overhang. I know when to expect the first breathtaking glimpse of the snowy peaks of the Divide. The landmarks are familiar. The trail is never the same twice. Starting in earliest spring, I play Name that Flower, counting species in bloom. By the end of May it’s a severe challenge to my aging brain cells to write a field list when I get home—May 26th last year, 98 species flowering. My favorite? Nuttall’s violet, because a yellow violet is an appealing contradiction. Besides, Nuttall was such an avid botanist he once stashed seeds in his gun barrel. I love that thought. Animals are also part of my personal trail map. The red fox belongs in that skunkbush tangle and often sits there at sunset. That ponderosa is where I (almost literally) stumbled on a coyote curled in the snow. A flock of bushtits foraged last December in that clump of junipers. I’ll look for fence lizards on those rocks in June, when the lizards do territorial lizard pushups and display their pinkish throat pouches. Come September, I’ll watch for young green racers—they look like tiny rattlers—along this stretch of hogback. There’s something very rewarding and reassuring about detail, continuity and the endless possibilities of knowing one trail so intimately.
Maggie and I first discovered Doudy Draw on a cold, bluebird winter day when we wanted to take a hike with our infant son (who is now almost 6 feet tall and 14 years old). Cherryvale and Marshall Roads offered quick access from our home east of Boulder. With our son warmly wrapped in a backpack we explored the options, which include hiking or riding the Community Ditch branch trail or continuing up the draw under Eldorado Mountain and the Mickey Mouse Wall, a favorite of rock climbers. At the head of the draw, a nice loop leads east up onto a mesa between Colorado Highway 93 and Doudy Draw. The mesa can also be accessed from the Colorado Highway 93 trailhead. Throughout the area, you get a lesson in the variety of high-prairie ecosystems. The views are captivating and it’s not hard to imagine the Arapaho encamped in the mouth of the Eldorado and Boulder Valley below. Deer signs abound, and we often see these animals at dusk and dawn. If you choose to take the Community Ditch trail east to its junction with Colorado Highway 93, the views are excellent, too. The water in the ditch, which flows much of the year, provides attractive bird habitat and always intrigues our children and stimulates their imaginations. We have returned to Doudy Draw on many occasions, at all times of the day and year. Without fail, in an hour or two I am reminded of both the intimacy and the stunning sense of space characteristic of the high prairie. And I always find myself feeling grateful for the foresight of the community leaders who created our open space policies. We are indeed fortunate to live in Boulder County.
Winter, spring, summer or fall, all you gotta do is lace up your trail runners, open your senses and immerse yourself in the delights of this flatland run. Set out from the Marshall Road trailhead just south of Boulder’s city limits. A pair of birches forms a natural gateway to a working ranch where, during blustery late winter, new calves are born daily. In green, mud-luscious spring, these youngsters high spiritedly shy away as you run past. Farther on you pass through a prairie dog town in four-season action, scouts squeaking a warning, babies hightailing it to their dens. Past the first gate, a boardwalk crosses the sloughs. Breathe deep of the earth and water. Red-winged blackbirds sit like sentries on cattails and low trees, their gargling cry alerting marsh dwellers of your approach. Ducks and Canadian geese ply the open waters, while elegant slate-blue herons stalk the shallows. Look for box turtles! A trio of red-tailed hawks weaves overhead as frog songs fill the air. A northeast jogs crosses more grazing land. Green-gold grasses “high as an elephant’s eye” perfume the summer breeze. Feral bees shelter in the notch of a venerable cottonwood, and if you listen closely, you’ll hear their industrious hum over the burble of South Boulder Creek. Here the water slides over eroded cobbles, past cottonwoods and willows, a rabbit thicket and frog puddle, then under U.S. Highway 36 into another meadow of sunflowers, milkweed and thistles. At its northwestern edge, an old wooden barn accents stunning views of the Flatirons and the higher peaks of the Continental Divide. After the gate, head east again through the concrete tunnel under South Boulder Road to skirt a fenced meadow that’s home to pouncing coyotes, sunbathing garter snakes and a multitude of butterflies. Watch out for poison ivy along the fence line! Dogs are allowed on this stretch of trail, so watch them, too. After passing a gnarled cottonwood with a branch just perfect for dangling your feet into the creek, you’ll come to the turnoff for East Boulder Community Center, but don’t turn! The best is yet to come! The final segment of this run is shady, passing through small woods that boast several lovely old apple trees. In spring and early autumn the air is redolent with their blossoms, then fruit. The trail is dappled with light, scalloped with wading spots and a little swamp that’s slowly evolving into a glade. As you emerge from the woods, the trailhead on Baseline Road at Cherryvale makes a good turnaround. All told, this out-and-back is about seven miles, dirt start to finish. For me it takes about an hour and a half. My excuse for being slow is I’m drinking it all in!
My favorite hike in Boulder County from a photographic perspective is definitely the Mesa Trail, which extends for more than six miles from Chautauqua Meadow on Baseline Road to Eldorado Springs Drive west of Colorado Highway 93. The trail epitomizes a unique ecological zone where the Plains meet the foothills, resulting in a tremendous variety of flora, fauna and habitats. This ultra-scenic and moderately easy trail is a photographer’s paradise from May through October. I regularly hike and photograph many local trails, but the Mesa is my favorite for its profusion and diversity of colorful wildflowers, changing terrain from ponderosa forests to open meadows, and gorgeous views of the Flatirons, Bear Peak and the Plains. Some of the photogenic rock formations you’ll pass are Seal Rock, the Matron, the Maiden and Devil’s Thumb. Wildlife is abundant and you can usually spot mule deer, Abert’s squirrels, hawks, falcons, stellar jays and an occasional fox, black bear or mountain lion. There are also numerous signs of Boulder history, such as the Dunn house, a stone building at Mesa Trail’s southern end, and the remains of homesteaders’ cabins. Several lateral trails lead to cool, green oases and interesting landmarks. These include Fern Canyon, Bear Creek Canyon, Skunk Canyon, Shadow Canyon, the McClintock Nature Trail, Towhee Trail, Homestead Trail, Big Bluestem Trail and Mallory Cave. The explosion of floral color begins in May, with continuous waves of different wildflowers all summer into fall. The most predominant are golden banner, sunflower, monarda, wall flower, lupine, salsify, penstemon, chicory, gayfeather and aster. Some of my favorite spots for documenting this splendor are Chautauqua Meadow en route to the Mesa trailhead; the junction with Skunk Canyon, where there’s a dramatic view to the north of the third Flatiron; the lush meadows west of the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR); and the southern end of Mesa trail, which meanders through a wide, grassy slope. This section is spectacular in October, when red sumac contrasts brilliantly against copper-colored grasses and royal blue sky. Early morning light on a clear day is best, but overcast skies afford the opportunity to shoot close-ups of wildflowers and other details. Walking from north to south is cooler in summer. For shorter Mesa Trail experiences, you can access the main trail from several points (NCAR, Shanahan Trail, Skunk Canyon, Enchanted Mesa) and create a loop hike. If you plan to walk the entire length and don’t want to hike back, go with a friend and leave a vehicle at each end. But don’t forget your camera!
Start at Foothills Trailhead at the intersection of north Broadway and U.S. Highway 36. Head west to the highway underpass, where an old swallows’ nest hangs, and within a few minutes you’ll arrive at Prairie Dog Town! From here the multiuse trail ascends gently until an unnamed path goes off and up to the right. Stay left passing through the gate about five minutes ahead and steeply up for 100 yards until two signs on a trail leading right become visible. Take this path and leave the mountain bikers, dogs and crowds behind. Go right at the Hogback Loop Trail sign. The trail climbs at a pleasant angle across the hillside and heads north. Soon you’ll pass an old, round, metal watering trough along a stone pathway amongst the sparse pine trees, yucca plants and bramble bushes. The clearing after this is the home of 21 mule deer that love grazing here in the early evening. Soon afterward the trail switchbacks to the left for the final grueling climb to the summit. Off to the right is a sea of easy-angled slabs composed entirely of tiny pebbles. On the summit is private land and a view down to Olde Stage Road to the west. The summit blocks are unique and worth exploring for 25 or 30 minutes. The run down the semi-engineered trail is one of the best in Boulder! After a few minutes, a clearing and the first boulder come into view on the left. While small in size, it offers a great traverse line, as well as a four- or five-move route to the top on excellent holds. The landing area is rough and rocky, so beware. Onward! Don’t miss the “Open Hole” hidden in the next set of boulders on the left, offering yet another good traverse line as well as some dynamic moves upward. The run from here is a sheer delight for feet, legs and eyes. The mountains of Golden are visible in the distance; everything in-between is a bonus. The rest of the downward path is easy sailing!
Editor’s Note: Freddie Snalam, our colleague and friend, was killed in an avalanche in Chamonix, France, in March, 2002. This is the last thing he wrote before departing on that trip. Freddie’s enthusiasm for life, love of nature and infectious spirit were contagious. He was a kind, gentle man who loved to play and had a true zest for life. We will forever miss his indomitable spirit.
My favorite trail is East Boulder Trail because of its diversity, tranquility and beautiful views. The trail starts on Arapahoe Road east of 75th Street and goes through some nice prairie, some farmland and past some ponds where you can see interesting water birds including red-winged blackbirds, Canadian geese, mallards and others. It crosses over Valmont Road and goes to the east end of White Rocks Nature Preserve for a nice view of Boulder Creek and the White Rocks, which are home to hundreds of swallows whose mud nests cover the rocks. The trail then meanders up Gunbarrel Hill and back to 75th Street. On top of Gunbarrel Hill, you can see downtown Boulder, the prairie, the foothills and the Indian Peaks mountain backdrop. It’s just a lovely trail. Perhaps it’s not as unique as other trails in Boulder County, but it’s nice because it’s not crowded and offers a variety of plant and animal life. There are wonderful old cottonwoods along the way, some native grasses, and you often see raptors, deer, foxes, coyotes, owls and rabbits. The sound of the creek is very soothing, and it’s a particularly cool spot on hot summer days. A nice time to hike this trail is around sunset in late spring and early summer, when you can listen to birdsongs and watch the sun sink below the mountains into a sea of pink clouds.
For long-distance runners (or very fast hikers) who really want the full tour, this loop promises satisfaction. It’s challenging, with plenty of distance and more elevation gain than most folks get in a week. Do it prepared with full hydration and fuel supplies, and perhaps an escape route in mind if you’re unable to complete the circuit. Start on either the north or south end of Mesa Trail. It doesn’t matter because this is a loop, so you can run in either direction. If you begin at Chautauqua Park, head counterclockwise so you’ll complete the big climbs early. Head west up Gregory Canyon and don’t stop your westward ascent until you intersect with upper Flagstaff Road, where you head south (or up). Stay on the road for three miles until you descend to Walker Ranch, where you get on the trail. One of my favorite parts of the See-it-All Loop are the wildflowers before you peak over the top of Flagstaff Road. Depending on how punchy (or punched) you feel, go the long (counterclockwise) or short (clockwise) way on the Walker loop. Soak in the westward views on the way down to Walker Ranch, where the Old West springs to life. When you come to the southeastern part of the loop, head east (up again!) on Eldorado Canyon Trail, which climbs about a mile and then drops down several miles through a rugged, chiseled landscape into Eldorado Springs. When you reach Eldo, fill your bottles or hydration bladder at Eldorado Springs before heading north on the undulating Mesa Trail back to scenic Chautauqua. Depending on the direction you choose for Walker Ranch, the run is 20 miles, give or take a couple. Keep in mind that these are tough miles because your vertical gain will be a total approaching 5,000 feet. This run is best in late spring or early fall, when it’s not too hot and the trails aren’t icy.
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